
by Bruce Murray and Klaus Nessel
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About this time last
year, the two of us were deciding how to take a well-earned break from the
business of earning a living, and it seemed like a great idea to spend about two weeks
focussing on cars in general and Alfas in particular. Most of the time was spent in
Germany, followed by a trip to the Festival of Speed at Goodwood in England. In Germany,
we saw some splendid museums, rented an Alfa 166 (with a Fiat engine) and took it to the
Nurburgring to lap as fast as we could. We took a fair number of photos, of course, and a
selection are included here. The rest can be found in a "photo
album" on this web site.
The trip we took started in Frankfurt in June, and we visited several museums
in that part of Germany, most notably the Rosso Bianco Collection in Aschaffenburg, which
has a superb collection of Alfas within a total of some 200 exhibits. This picture shows
the ground floor and has many Alfas mixed in with other continental exotica. Several Tipo
33 variants were on display and their pictures can be seen in the "photo album". The cars are in superb condition and, as
well as our favorite make, virtually all of the important sports car manufacturers were
represented. We pretty much had the museum to ourselves, it being a weekday, in spite of
the busy tourist season. Going up to the second floor reveals a beautiful array of Alfas
in a well-laid-out setting.
The collection was inaugurated in October of 1987 in an abandoned textile
mill by former sports car driver Peter Kaus and his then partner Hans-Holger Frenzel, and
is probably the most encompassing two-seater sports car gathering in the world. Kaus's
motoring passion was implanted by his father driving a compressor Mercedes 540K before
WWII. In his career, Kaus was involved in the development of polymer plastic car bodies
for prototypes like the early Corvette and German-made NSU. The cars from the collection
are often entered in the leading vintage car events, and visiting the museum shortly
before or after a race could be disappointing. Since the early days, cars have left the
Aschaffenburg halls to find other homes, but the 10601 engine on its former textile roll
rack display continues to keep guard and greets the Alfista amidst other memorabilia on
the ground floor.
Unfortunately, although we went to the Porsche factory, we were unable to tour the production lines since there is a long waiting list. Nevertheless, the company museum is interesting if small, and it certainly is worth a trip if you are in the general area. We did watch a video address by the company chairman extolling the Porsche way of doing thingsas opposed to the Japanese wayrather pointed and direct but the message was very clear. The Porsche way is to build a car with the highest imaginable engineering standards (but not necessarily with the emotional impact of the Italian makesauthor's opinion!).
A major focus of the tour was to push an
Alfa around the North Loop of the Nurburgring using the twin counterbalanced four-banger's
redline as much as possible. Going there is almost like a religious experience, since some
of the finest Grand Prix and sports car drives ever made occurred here. The loop is no
longer used for Grand Prix, primarily for safety reasons; however, it is kept in superb
condition, with a smooth surface and good run-off areas. The course is about 14 miles
around and the picture shows how tortuous the course is. It is used for endurance racing
like the 1000 km or the 24 hour race and vintage car racing of all sorts, with the
"Oldtimer Grand Prix" being the annual highlight. The Alfa we used was a rented
166 Twin Spark, for which the preparations consisted of pumping up the tires and making
sure we had the engine oil topped up to the full mark.
The basic arrangement is that, for a few
dollars a lap, you can drive any vehicle you wish around the course just as fast as you
want to. You must concentrate not only on driving the course itself but also on the
traffic mix, which includes very fast two- and four-wheel machinery. You pick your line
for a corner and all seems well with the car, and then you get blown off by a rice burner
at full tiltquite unnerving! We were able to take a few laps before the course was
closed to clear away an accident or two. We were not set up to take pictures during the
laps, simply because we did not have a camera mount on the car, and hand-held just can't
be held steady enough. So all we can show here is a slow-speed shot of the gate at the
start of a lap. You can just make out the Porsche and the motorcycles forming up a group
ready to take off.
The 166 handled well around the course, and the brakes were progressive and did not seem to deteriorate during a lap. However, it would have been much nicer to have the 3 liter engine, but unfortunately one wasn't available.
The Nurburgring experience is simply unforgettable and probably unique in the world, not only for its history and location, but also because you can experience the limits of your own ability. Such a long course is a challenge to learn and clearly many visits are needed!
The Auto-Technik Museum at Sinsheim, on our drive to Nuremburg, is well worth a visit for exhibits you probably won't see elsewhere. A large hall with a splendid display of cars (we don't remember any Alfas) also contains moving railway engines and massive submarine diesels. Another hall contains German WWII military equipment and aircraft, both damaged and not. The displays are well laid out in realistic settings, rather that just stand-alone artifacts.
Nuremberg itself has a lot to offer, like Bratwurst and
Pilsner beer, besides the German Rail Museum, the Toy Museum and the Zeppelin Grandstand
of ill-reputed 20th century German history, now serving as backdrop for the German Touring
Car championship races on Norisring.
On Sunday, June 18, the Darmstadt Mercedes dealer had an open house in the showroom for
race fans to watch the Canadian Grand Prix. A large-screen TV was set up and straw bales
were distributed around to give the required ambience. It was very enjoyable and
presumably generates showroom traffic. Unfortunately for the home team, the red car won
that day and the McLarens also had some problems.
A brief interlude, and then off to Goodwood in the south of England for the Festival of Speed. In just a few years, this event has become one of the most important automobile events in the world, and without any doubt is A MUST for the European vintage motorist. Sports and racing cars, both privately and factory owned, are shown and raced or demonstrated up a hillclimb course cut through the private estate of the Earl of March and Kinrara. Many celebrities attend, and it is delightful to wander through the paddock and see fine old machinery and their drivers being set up for the hillclimb. Occasionally one smells Castrol R, which is one of the most emotive scents for the senior set.
Alfa, celebrating its 90th anniversary, was very well represented, with the factory transporter bringing four cars: a P3, a 159, an 8C2900, and a 33TT12:
The Alfas arrived in an immaculate
transporter, on which the loading platform unfortunately stuck and couldn't be freed for
several hours. Some muttered cursing, no doubt! However, the transporter driver couldn't
care less and had succumbed to the after-effects of an insistent sea sickness due to the
unfriendly channel weather. But, in spite of this, even he showed a heart for the odd two
enthusiasts who wandered away happily with two copies of the Alfa Romeo Museo catalogue
leaflet. Thanks, Giancarlo!
Alfa UK did themselves proud (especially when compared to the official showings in Germany) and, as well as the racing cars, they had a superb pavilion set up showing production cars, both old and new. The pictures to the left show a 2600 Touring Spider, a Giulietta SZ, a 1900 CSS by Touring, and the Pininfarina Giulietta Spider prototype (note the US-style windshield), all brought over from the Museo Storico.
The final event in the tour was a solo visit by Bruce
to the Brooklands museum in Weybridge, near Heathrow. Brooklands was the first banked race
track built in the world and opened in about 1907. Racing ceased there pre-WWII, but a
section of the banking has been kept and you can walk on it and ponder the courage of the
men, and women, who drove at outrageous speeds around this bumpy concrete track. There is
an interesting museum where, amongst the usual memorabilia, you can buy a CD video game
called "The Spirit of Speed".
The
game is set in 1937 and allows you to race in period cars such as a P3 around the major
European race courses of the time (but not the Nurburgring, unfortunately). It's a blast
and well worth about $30, but you do need a good steering wheel and pedal setup for your
PC. Leather gloves and a flat cap on backwards are useful accessories. The cars to choose
from include three Alfas: a P3, a Bimotore, and a 12C. Worthy opposition comes from
Bugatti, Auto Union, Miller, and Mercedes.
After having indulged in some fine automotive
machinery, steam engines, twisting country roads chasing Ford Escorts uphill, a
fascinating and demanding race track, the truly unique high class picnic atmosphere of
Goodwoodjust to top things off, the authors of this little report were blessed with
the births of two grandchildren during their tripone in the US and one in the
UKthat's why this turned out to be the Overdose Tour! ![]()
Bio note: Klaus Nessel, a past member of AONE used to live in Cohassett where he cared for a Touring Spider 2600. Upon his return to Germany a few years ago, he shipped the 2600 to Bremen and then drove it to his home near Darmstadt.
But waitthere's more! Make sure to browse through the Y2K Overdose Tour Photo Album!