By Tom Ducibella

Preface

The following is a longer version of the article that appeared in the Alfa Owner magazine in March, 2024 (shortened due to the Owner’s space limitations). Also, the Owner added a page of resto photos, unbeknown to the author. Not only was the text shortened, but many of the quotes from professional restorers were removed. The quotes were important so that the reader would avoid the impression that the article was not merely one member’s (author’s) opinion.  Why is this important?

Well, we know that Alfa owners have their own individual ideas of what restoration means, how to pursue a restoration, and by what mechanism they want to purchase an older Alfa. Some members would benefit from having input from many professionals in order to make the best decisions to achieve a successful purchase – an Alfa without hidden problems or unexpected significant additional costs. Unfortunately, these occur all too often.

I have changed the title for Velocissima and added some additional text (to the original) in order to provide a few specific examples. Much more could have been written, but at the expense of putting off many readers (understandably). 

Over a long period of time, I have worked at 3 restoration shops on Alfas and each has been a learning experience, not only from working on the cars, but seeing what condition they arrive, how they were bought, and what the buyer was (and was not) considering. 

Since I know some of you actually have more technical experience in some areas than I, I salute you and ask that you consider submitting content useful to the membership. My experience includes these cars/scenarios: 2600 Coupe, 1969 Spider Veloce, 1974 GTV, Alfa convertible top replacements (many years), 1970s Lamborghini Espada, 1967 Ferrari 330 GTC, and 1972 Ferrari Daytona. Of course, I was a shop participant in these projects and my role was not to work on all aspects of a restoration or servicing.

The reader may think of additional recommendations and the author (tom@nanduce.com) would welcome hearing about them.

With the current expanding market in sales and auctions of older sports cars, as well as the ballooning sale prices, there has not been a comprehensive article covering the broad aspects of restoration in the Alfa Owner in past few years or more. One example of its importance in the realm of Alfa Romeo is Bob Abhalter’s market report in nearly every issue, sometimes the longest article. Bob covers the sale end, but the restoration of many of those cars is left to the auction site, where coverage is often incomplete.

We learn what is bought and sold, but, largely untold, behind the scenes is a story of a buyer who has decided to purchase, sometimes at a high cost, a 30-60 year old Alfa. This article addresses the considerations that should go into such a purchase or restoration in order to maximize a happy ending for the buyer. 

The experts largely agree that if you want to acquire an older classic sports car that it is better to find an unrestored one that has a documented history of excellent condition/maintenance or one with an excellent restoration, vetted by a thorough pre-purchase inspection (PPI).

With that said, you readers know that many older cars are purchased that do not fit into these two categories (above). In fact, many of my fellow club members own one or several Alfas that are in the process of restoration. With most of the above info known to many of you, why is it relevant to write about evaluating the process of purchasing or restoring an older car? 

Three reasons come to mind: First, many purchasers still get in “over their head” (financially and technically) by not doing their homework pre-purchase. Second, many decisions are made based on passion for Alfa, unverified inferences, and emotional flashbacks (I’m sure you can add to this list). Third, with the internet, there is the idea that a car need not be actually visited or evaluated in person by the buyers or your restorer/mechanic (keeping in mind that some auctions do provide significant and helpful information, which has been increasing; e.g., undercarriage photos). 

Last but not least, although many articles are informative, few have sufficient detail about the many steps required to optimize the restoration process and result for both the owner and shop.  It is not uncommon for restorations and significant repairs to run into frustrations, cost over runs, and even misunderstandings. In this article, I have tried to provide sufficient details to minimize the occurrence or severity of this issues. But, I don’t want to remove the emotional factor of obtaining an older sports car. Let’s start at the beginning, after you have decided on your model.

1. What level of condition or restoration is your objective? This decision impacts cost, restoration services availability, time to completion, and, very often, peace of mind. In general, as the amount or level of restoration increases so do the impacts of all these factors. But what does the word restored really mean: Actually there is range of categories. 

At one end is  “preservation class” for unrestored cars (fix only mechanicals and clean/preserve original factory surfaces; including original paint). At the other end is highest level concours restoration (paint, trim, engine, suspension, any deteriorating parts, running condition). The choice is important because it impacts factors above and usually the type of use of the vehicle. There is no correct answer, but many buyers will choose a condition in between these two and this is where the “further restoration factor” kicks in. The quotes below include commentary from Keith Martin’s publications, which are noted for their relevance to purchasing and restoration (SCM – Sports Car Market publications).

There is no one definition of perfection….One approach to restoration – or preservation – is not more correct than other. (SCM, Concours D’Elegance guide, 2023, p.12, Keith Martin)

A complete restoration should involve every system on the car….These restorations are expensive. “Refurbishment” is a more realistic route for most cars….fixing everything that is broken or almost broken…and leaving the rest…original. …A cosmetic restoration involves paint- and metalwork but not necessarily mechanical repairs. (SCM, Insider’s Guide to Restorations, 2022, p.26, Pierre Hedary)

2. Research your initial decision: Validate the reality of your choice regarding the cost to purchase and/or restore (current market value @ your preferred condition) and factors mentioned in this article. Other Alfa Owner articles may be of value as well. Talk to owners of your model who drive their cars. Use your club’s list of owners and their models, where available (the New England Chapter is considering asking owners for what models they own and making a list – the purpose is to assist other members with the same model).

You need to do your homework…be honest with yourself about the car you want at the end of this process. Ask the shop owner what path he would recommend to get you to the destination that you desire (SCM, Restorations 2020, p.8, Keith Martin).

Check the availability of service expertise, especially to complete any unfinished items or for restoration. For market values over time and with regard to vehicle condition, see the Hagerty and auction websites. is the value going up or down? How much does it matter to you?

Debunk myths, for example: Carbs are better than fuel injection (both can be modified). Fuel injection is difficult to maintain (not if you  have the manual). Aftermarket exhausts are easy to install (just ask a shop). Restoration painting over old body filler is perfectly ok (not acc. to the experts). Many non-original/factory modifications do not affect model market price (originality is king, with rare exception). Old tires in good visual condition are ok for all applications. Brake fluid does not need to be changed if the car is not driven many miles per year. 

3. Locate a resto shop: First, think carefully about what projects, if any, you want to undertake, and get independent confirmation if a complicated project seems easy on a YouTube. Second, for farm-out projects, your shop should have a track record of accomplishments that directly relate to your objectives. Sounds easy, but for restoration, these specialists are not in every town or city. Moderate restoration is not the same as routine service. Marque and model experts may need to be verified. Trust experts and club members who have had similar projects  completed and talk with authority. Although many sports car owners have general knowledge, there is no substitute for direct experience, sufficient detail, and honest conversations. 

A good restoration shop should be able to help you decide which path will work best….(SCM, Insider’s Guide to Restorations, 2022, p.26, Pierre Hedary)

Ask how they dismantle a car, how they catalog and store what’s removed….Take a close look at several cars in progress….ask for references [bold by TD] (SCM, Insider’s Guide to Restorations, 2022, p.16, Ken Gross)

4. Restoration costs: Go over a list of objectives, not generalizations  (Be specific: a complete resto would include paint, trim, suspension, interior, engine). You will not get a precise answer of the cost from a reputable resto shop, but should get a range. Even for a minor restoration, a short list should have a cost range for each item (e.g., paint a fender, polish/re-chrome trim, seat upholstery, etc.). Make certain it includes parts and labor. Importantly, the shop may require you to insure your vehicle for any unexpected misfortunes (one year, there were unusual winter conditions, resulting in a snow load-associated roof cave-in, affecting classic cars in a storage facility).

Does the vehicle warrant the expense to restore it? A shop doesn’t charge a different rate based on the value of the vehicle…(SCM, Insider’s Guide to Restorations, 2021, p.16, Somer Hooker)

You are better off buying a solid example and spending much more up front [than a full  restoration of a much lesser car] (SCM, Insider’s Guide to Restorations, 2021, p. 16, Somer Hooker)

A shop cannot tell how much improper body work is under the paint or precisely how much engine work will be needed. Do you have %150 of projected resto cost (I’ve seen 200% recommended, as well)? Do you want the option to get your money back if ever selling the car? Does the time-frame of work agreed upon work for you (if no unexpected related additional work is required or parts become scarce)? How often are the invoices sent and are they accompanied by detailed cost line items and photos? Which parts are replaced (new or used) and which are rehab’ed?

These [complete] restorations should involve every system on a car…. Often, they end in economic imbalance with the owner over-investing in the car. (SCM, Insider’s Guide to Restorations, 2022, p.26, Pierre Hedary)

If a shop offers you a lump-sum rate, move on. They may have to cut corners to meet that figure. (SCM, Insider’s Guide to Restorations, 2022, p.16, Ken Gross)

5. PPI (pre-purchase inspection). Use an independent (impartial) specialist (your marque/model). Not only get an evaluation of the car in question, but have a list (for ex., based on this & other articles) of specific questions about “your” model of interest. 

Look into affiliations if the seller recommends someone. Photos are only part of the story; you can’t use a magnet, run a compression test, take a test drive, or see oil leaks,  Find a long-time owner of that model and buy him/her their favorite beverage. Obtain your model in the best condition that you can afford (so many experts write this, but it is not always heeded).

A word of advice: With any restoration, start with good bones. Aim to source the very best example you can find. (SCM, Insider’s Guide to Restorations, 2022, p.20, Jeff Snyder)

Modifications kill the resale from many collector cars”….”minor updates are easily reversible. (SCM, 7/2023, p.58-59, Tom Glatch)

6. Paper trail: All experts agree that documented service history is not only a huge plus, but its absence is a red flag. In the former case, you know a lot about how the owner cared about the car, maintenance, what was replaced, and who did the work. In a documentation void, mechanical, suspension, and body/paint areas are black boxes (and require much more inspection and testing). Without a service history, a timing belt should be replaced (which leads to the tensioner, and, on some cars, at a considerable cost, even an engine- or tansmission-out service).

A clear title and no outstanding debt or liens is usually the case, but not always. See John Andreas’ monthly column in the SCM magazine for the many types of errors, omissions, and issues that can affect the buyer obtaining legal ownership. 

7. Parts: Check with your shop about the availability of quality parts for your project. There are several flavors, each with their own issues. Now, often the case is NLA (no longer available; unless there is a rare eBay find). Then, there are NOS (new old stock, increasingly rare as restorations eat them up).  Often, projects resort to new repro parts (NRP), but quality and fit may not be correct.  Recently, replacement NRP motor mounts have arrived with insufficient welding. Convertible tops arrive, but additional important parts are required, for ex. Associated with the front metal structural bow (a track for the gasket; or Duetto rubber bump stops on the hinge frames; these have to be purchased separately or are NLA, needing fabrication).

The rarer the car, the higher the price of NRP (economics 101: a smaller market). However, all of us should be grateful that NRP are being made and shops provide feedback to distributors when they don’t fit.

Professional  mechanic friends…..all noted the general decline in the quality of available parts. (Hagerty Driver’s Club #80, 2023, p.114, Larry Webster)

8. Be Aware: Resto Shop Challenges: Even the best resto shops have challenges. Already mentioned were the scarcity of NOS parts and the quality of NRP. When they are not correct, they have to be removed, modified, or replaced; so, more time on the shop’s clock for your resto (for both the technician and parts guy who locates new ones & returns the misfits). 

If a shop has never restored a vehicle like your car, or one that’s similar, the learning process can be very expensive – and they won’t know what’s accurate. (SCM, Insider’s Guide to Restorations, 2022, p.16, Ken Gross) [Gross also indicates the very best shops can be exceptions, but you may have to pay for their research]

Then, there is challenge of removing, cleaning, and refitting decades-old delicate parts, like plastic interior pieces (delicate horn buttons, knobs, switches) and door trim held in place by (now) rusty tension/clip fasteners. Top engine rebuilders will tell you that rebuilding a 50 year old engine is not the same as a 15 year old (mileage may not be relevant, especially if it has not had frequent oil changes, been in storage, or been improperly rebuilt).

Let’s not forget, the been-there-before factor, in which a previous owner or less than master technician has improperly done an install: incorrect fastener thread size, sheared fastener, improper wiring, and some original parts just missing entirely. Did the previous body shop drill lots of dent-puller holes or use too much filler? Was a rusty undercarriage purposely covered with undercoat? Fixing these, of course, means more resto time. 

A reputable, top-flight shop makes sure your restoration does not include these problems. In fact, the big shops have lathes and Bridgeport milling machines and special welding equipment, and even a full time machinist, to help address such issues (thank goodness for helicoils, special tools, penetrants for slightly frozen fasteners, as well as the McPherson College for its training program in restoration).

9. Time. The following quote is the rule, not the exception.

The most frustrating part of restoring any car is the time it takes. Although most shops offer a timeline…these often fail to match reality….parts availability, lack of [special] labor skills, or more work than anticipated….issues are often difficult for shop patrons to understand…best advice…be patient and ask for regular progress reports (SCM, Insider’s Guide to Restorations, 2021, p.24, Pierre Hedary)

10. Resto Shop Documentation. Detailed pics and bills (exactly what was done) are important. During and after the work, put together a documentation notebook hard copy and flash drive. Even if you are not presently planning to resell the car, you may change your mind, or someone may make you an offer you can’t refuse (as long as you have documentation), or you may pass away, leaving a family heirloom to be sold. If the car is headed for a concours, documentation can be useful in many situations. 

Where were major parts obtained (if any fail)? Were the starter and alternator overhauled? Was the radiator sent out for pressure testing and a serious flush? As time passes after even a partial restoration, the answers to these questions can easily become lost, if left to the department of “restoration memory” or your shop personnel  may move away or retire.

11. Post-resto. Salient advice was provided by an expert, Alex Finegan, with over 40 years of experience. After a major restoration, there is that fear of driving your pristine machine (some nightmare will happen or road rash on the newly painted nose). His advice is to go to car shows and get some acknowledgments, maybe even a trophy. Then, drive your car versus making it a “Garage Queen”.

As Yogi said, “It ain’t over ‘til it’s over”. In the months/years after you take delivery of your car, there may be unexpected distractions. An original trim fastener, hose clamp, or new water pump belt may need adjusting, or a short-lived NRP. Keep In mind that you are starting a relationship all over again and, as they say, it was only new once.

12 . May I recommend the 95% level resto for those who want to use their cars very often. Why? Here are typical reasons; less worry and stress about: very minor damage road rash to paint), loss of pristine patina from normal use (esp., upholstery), and decrease in market value with mileage since restoration. My own 95%’er resto (a 1969 Alfa, resto  finished in 1995) has been a “go to” car for both events and wkend fun, without either psychological or “patina” stress (small changes due to aging and use are consistent within the 95% over-all condition).

Since few comprehensive restoration updates have been widely available recently, this article attempts to cover many of the important parts of the long process in locating, evaluating, purchasing, restoring, and being comfortable with this process. So many club members and owners have encountered significant challenges in a purchase or restoration. This includes the author and some very experienced owners. 

One can head into the (potential) black hole of restoration “driving” by the seat of your pants or have a well thought-out resto technical and philosophical itinerary to minimize inevitable bumps in the resto road and maximize what can be a very rewarding experience. For some of us, it is time to refresh our recollection of the classic: Zen and The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, by Robert Pirsig.

The author wishes to thank AONE Web-meister, Dave Pratt, for his support to put out this article and web expertise & creativity. [<— Tom made me include this or he wasn’t going to give me the bottle of Ipswich Ale that he’d promised. —Ed.]